Quote:
Originally posted by Atticus Grinch
In terms of tasting, a lot of money has been put into "the Tasting Room experience" in Napa. These places now charge money (flat fee or by the glass) because they are tourist destinations in their own right. Some of the big-money beverage conglomerates have built recockulous French chateaux on the hills of Napa and Sonoma to make it look like they've always been there. In fact, it's all been in the past 15 years. Domaine Carneros is kind of the classic example of this --- it's like they rebuilt Vaux le Vicomte in the middle of farmland.
Very few Napa-side wineries are still doing tastings The Way It Used to Be. For old-school surrounded-by-oak-barrels style tasting, I recommend Cakebread and Grgich Hills. These are nor tours, per se, but you'll get an idea of what winery visits used to be like.
ZD makes an excellent Chardonnay. Silver Oak is good for Cabernets, and has a cool Spanish mission style tasting room. As for tours, I've heard good things about Beringer's and Mondavi's tours,* but actually the process of making wine is pretty boring in comparison to the process for making champagne. I recommend Domaine Chandon for a champagne tour. (Their tasting room is just meh.)
FWIW, they say Sonoma is a much less snooty experience --- you might actually get to talk to the vintner in the tasting room, rather than a glorified waiter. There are also places in Sonoma that still do not charge for tasting. Good luck finding anyplace in Napa that doesn't. (V. Sattui doesn't count since they found mice in the panini, and besides their wines are for shit and always have been.)
*ETA: I have also heard good things about Niebaum-Coppola but haven't personally been there. Unlike many of the other chateau tasting rooms, the Niebaum estate is legitimately old skool.
ETFA: As a native and resident I am unqualified to recommend B&Bs.
ETFFA: I agree with NFH --- Mustards sux. But be warned: you have no prayer of getting into the French Laundry.
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Y'all are giving me a major wine jones.
Unlike Atticus, I have done the Mondavi tour, and I've been to Coppola's place. Both worthwhile, but big and very crowded. Niebaum-Coppola is, I think, the old Inglenook estate. You can see a bunch of movie memorabilia there, too. St. Supery has a good tour and decent wine; modern facility plus an old original house.
If you get over to the Silverado Trail side of the valley, things quiet down. Along with relatively big guns like Pine Ridge and Chimney Rock, you can still find some funky little wineries. Quality is more hit-or-miss, but you may be talking to the winemaker, rather than some tasting room clerk.
If you make it to Carneros, I'm a big fan of Schug, especially for the price point. Nice folks, too. In that area, the tour at Carneros Alambic distillery is pretty cool. Only downside: no tasting. Just smelling. Buy some, though. Good stuff.
