| Atticus Grinch |
07-01-2010 10:42 AM |
Re: Ireland Again
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adder
(Post 427631)
Just to try to makes things a bit more about me, here is my thinking about my planned Irish excursion. At the moment, there isn't really any reason not to make it a rather long trip, in particular because I can be quite flexible on flights due to familial pilot relationships.
I am in particular interested in specific recommendations of any lesser-known spots that are worth a visit (be that towns, sites, pubs or restaurants).
I was in Ireland once before while in college. That trip, however, was limited to sleeping on the floor of my friend's (who was there for a semester) flat near the St. James Gate Brewery, which happened to be the worst flat I have set foot in, taking buses to Galway and Belfast, and a minibus tour of the Connemara. I've already forgotten Ironweed's tips on football kit, but as I haven't got any I'll just try to remember that Shankill is unionist and the Falls ism Republican. Having read more than my fair share of books on the Troubles, that shouldn't be too hard.
This time my intent is to rent (the smallest and cheapest) available car for a few weeks and try to cover some of the more out of the way places. A few questions in particular:
1. Is there a strong reason to go to Waterford? I was planning to bypass it while more or less moving around most of the island's coast.
2. Am I crazy to skip the Ring of Kerry? I'm planning to spend some time exploring the peninsula's of Cork (one of my ancestral homelands) and the Dingle Peninsula (along with Sligo and Donegal), so I think I might have it covered and what I have read suggested that the Ring of Kerry may be over infested with tourists anyway.
3. I am also planning to skip Limerick. Any reason not to do so?
4. Anyone have any coastal island recommendations? At the moment I'm not sure any seem worthwhile, but if anyone thinks, e.g., that the Arran Islands are unmissable, I may reconsider.
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1. There is a reason to go to Waterford if your family is from there, as mine is. If it isn't, you can afford to miss it. It was a pretty important town during the Viking period -- perhaps one of the most important places in Dark Ages Europe -- but they have one round tower to show for it. Also, the crystal factory tour is cool if you want to to see hand-blown crystal being made, but if you don't, stick to the smaller towns.
2. Not crazy. Dingle is very similar. But the benefit of Kerry is that the towns along the way are in tip-top shape for tourism. An example is the town of Sneem, which could have you believing you're in an Irish town in 1880, or 1940, or 1970. I was there in 1992 and the roads were better maintained etc. precisely because it was overinfested with tourists. But in terms of landscape, you'll do as well with Dingle as with Kerry.
3. No.
4. The Arran Islands are worth a day trip, if only for the tour of the island and the Stone Age forts. I wouldn't recommend staying the night there -- I think there's one hotel on the island, but it's for hard-core types who want to say they stayed after the tourists left. Um, you ARE the tourists. I wouldn't say "unmissable," but it's a glimpse of Irish life that was pretty unchanged until the 1980s when there was regular ferry service. I think it's about an hour by boat, and then you marvel that people made a living off this godforsaken rock, lugging seaweed from the beach to make the soil.
Other recommendations: Kinsale -- one of the prettiest places I've ever seen. The Cliffs of Moher. Blarney -- not for the stone, for the gardens. (If I go back, I'll look for the town where they filmed "Ballykissangel," just for the kicks.)
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